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Tuesday, June 14, 2022

Two Weeks in Photos

My week started trying to understand Tanzanian Land Law and assist my former employer with boundaries on athe land where a classroom is to be built. The photos show the only beacon marker I found and that was at torchlight. The map is my clumsy way of trying to locate the beacon on Google maps.

Land in Tanzania is all leased from the government and there is no private ownership. It is usually a 99 year lease. Churches have acquired significant land over the years and just like in Rugby, if you don’t use it you lose it.

I finally learned about time here. The standard clock is fine if you have a clock. In the villages, the sun is the clock so as people arrange things it is all down to the sun. 7am European time is 1 o’clock swahili time. So 3pm is 9 o’clock. Time is not exact so if people go to town from the villages they talk about a 10am appointment being at 3 o’clock. The Biblical parallel of Jesus breathing his last at the ninth hour makes sense now.

Thursday and Friday of that week was a trip to Bunda looking at boundaries for the college, the new building site and speaking to the builder to discuss the location of the building and future plans. I am not a conceptual person when it comes to these things so they were very patient with me as we looked at the plans and why the new classroom was being sited where it will go.

From BBC we went to Bunda Girls Secondary School a few minutes away. I have been involved in this construction since BGSS started in 2013. I spent time with the Principal going through plans ad what is needed to complete the school subject to funds being available. Again not being a reader of plans it took some time for me to “get it.” At least this provides a bit of a plan for the future. I couldn’t leave without being shown their magnificant garden which grows fruit and vegetables.

It was then back to BBC to speak to graduating external studies studets and that took three hours, covering a range of topics, but focussed a lot on supporting oneself as a village pastor in poor communities. Inevitably it means having some income or provision for supporting oneself by means of agriculture. The bishop expects churches to provide a minimum of 60,000 TZS monthly but many pastors do not even receive this. So farming, animal husbandry and chickens and in some cases women have skills such as hair braiding which may provide small amounts of income.

I swapped my chair and invited one of the women who had experience in Church and Community Based Process establishing village banks (not to be confused with westrn bans) that lend to each other to establish and grow businesses. The women in this meeting were really switched on and engaged.

Then as dusk approached it was off to look for beacons. After giving up in the dark we went to the home of an Australian who has been in Australia since COVID and the picture tells what her cook prepared for us. 8pm for dinner and a long day.

Shalom Primary School commenced in 2017 and building has continued despite COVID. The buildings there are magnificent. We met the principal Beatrice and Juliana the deputy and site engineer as they are currently completing a classroom block and looked at the site of the Administration building due to start in August. Discussed need for staff accommodation and number of family units to be built. (Staff accommodation is an accepted condition over here for teachers). Also went and looked at the new Multipurpose Hall and kitchen. The kitchen is unused as no one want to use wood and charcoal and estroy this magnificant building. We discussed options including solar. Can we cook using electric solar powered stoves? Let me know if that is possible.

Afterwards we went and met the principal of the building company and discussed the future breiefly and asked for bills of quantity for the remaining buidings at BGSS and to see if 2023 might see its completion.

Then back to Musoma for a video meeting with a Disability provider across the lake which I had visited twice before to discuss the former disability program here in Mara and if it could be resurrected. A two hour meeting had interest shown as I shared photos of the buildings here and the Manager in Karagwe was interested to come and see for himslef after receiving a formal request on how this diocese proposed a disabilit program.

It ws then off to English Bible study where three Swahili speaking girls from the hostel and one male who comes regularly and speaks English turned up. It was a good session with the man interpreting for the girls. An hour turned into two and we left in darkness.

Sunday at the English congregation was a baptism service for two kids of a couple. The four year old looked pensive as the water flowed over his head. Note the baptismal font. Very kitsch.

For the foodies life goes on foodwise. Real coffee to start the day, tilapia once or twice a week and the plate above is roasted tilapia and vegetables at home. Beans, greens, plantains and casserole beef and chicken are staples for people with reasonable incomes.

As always the work day starts with a morning prayer time in the cathedral attended by between 50-80 people. The first photo below is girls walking back to the sewing centre with a staff member from the diocese in a yellow dress.

After our meeting with the disability team across the lake we left Tuesday to visit a local disability centre about twenty minutes south. We spoke to the dean of the vocational college which is what this disability centre has become and Gabriel an orthpaedic specialist who makes all sorts of interesting prosthetics as the photo shows.

The photo of the stained teeth above is as a result of minerlaisation of the water in Mwanza. Apparently this is quite common amongst people living there.

After we were finished our meeting we swung by a new church school being constructed so Arthur could check on painting. The only teacher of this new school saw me waiting and asked me to come and greet her class of ten which is what the school opened with. They spoke fantatstic English and sang me a song. Very impressive.

Wednesday I have been doing a Zoom meeting on retirement for the last six weeks. Last week this week with a group from Melbourne, Sydney, Tasmania and Qld. It has been interesting and thought provoking.

Thursday was my second strategic planning workshop. My aim is to have a draft of sorts by the time I leave in last September so getting input from a broad group is essential. This and the group next week are in English.

Friday was a rush getting things on the go done prior to leaving for Bunda where a groundbreaking service was being held for the new classroom at BBC. Rose is the cashier at a school and I saw her in the former auditor’s room as I wwent hunting some documents. She was doing some analysis of expenditure on a book I have never seen before. If any accounting people recognise I would like to know when last used in Australia. It does highlight how manual all things here are. I assume a PC program could spit that out in no time. But alas no computers. Or programs.

So to Saturday which was a big day at BBC and me as invited guest and speaker for the students’ graduation. That will need to wait.

Sunday, June 5, 2022

Two Wedding Receptions and Marriage Customs in Tanzania

 My latest blog in which I discuss wedding receptions and marriage in Africa

Last week I wrote about the wedding I attended on a Saturday morning. I was invited, along with Bishop to the reception which was a fascinating insight in the customs and practices amongs locals. It also highlighted that marriage here is a community event, not just involving the couple, their families and friends.

The bride’s family comes from Mwanza, the second largest city in TAnzania and about four hours south of Musoma. The first reception was there. After all the formalities atthe church they and the wedding party drove south for the first reception. This was attended by people from that city and surrounds as well as the families of both the bride and groom.

The second reception was Sunday night at a large hall near the outskirts of the centre of twon here at a building used by the University. While the road to get there was atrocious, the setting was astounding with fairy lights outside and the hall decked out beautifully with a long archway and fairy lights.

Due to start at 7pm, Bishop who knows the best man kept in contact with him to get an idea of when we should arrive (unlike turning up on Saturday as the first to arrive for a 9am wedding which didn’t get going till 10am. So we arrived at 8.30pm, the hall comfortbluy full awaiting the arrival of the married couple. We were asked where we would like to sit, so took a table on the upper level near the front.

Marriage is a Community Event

This receptiod had easily 200 plus people at it. As I was to learn the next morning from the best man, the event in Mwanza on Saturday evening was even bigger.

All people at this reception contributed to be there. Typically an invitation has an suggested amount per person/couple which could only cover perhaps catering costs and hall hire. However a committee is formed by friends and in this case the committee looked to be over forty people.

This wedding was arranged at six weeks notice, which is when the groom, a pastor in the church here approached his bishop (my host in Tanzania) asking permission and also seeking approval to marry in Mwanza at te bride’s family church. He was advised as an Anglican minister he was obligated to marry in his denominational church and the bishop offered to conduct the service.

The church service the day before had me pondering why the bride had not taken communion and the reason was that she had not been confrmed in the Anglican Church although baptised in it (all my Sydney Anglican friends should realise this is how the Anglican world still operates outside our very low diocese).

So the committee of many is formed and they organise everything including invitations and payment for the celebrations above what the groom had been able to raise when he asked his bride to marry him. Everything inlcudes hiring the venues for receptions, catering, drinks, table decorations and other decorations and the MC.

Now the MC was a very strong lady on crutches who seemed to have a secret code with the music man because she only had a give a signal and music stopped and the next agenda item started.

So once seated the guests of honour arrived though the long archway. I wasn’t sure who the first few small groups were but then the best man and maid of honour (who were married I later discovered) arrived then the bride and groom to much loud applause, cheering and ululating, amongst the music playing.

Unlike Western weddings the dancing starts straight away. Once the bridal couple were stood at the front, a mosh pit like crowd gathered around and the dancing started with cheers, and greetings from all those agthered around. I lost sight of them at various times. After some ten minutes without any indication, the sound stopped and all except the bridal party sat down.

The cake is then cut and speeches begin but from the groom and bride. The symbolic wedding cake after cutting is distributed as gifts to various groups being thanked by the happy couple. For good measure there are a half dozen cakes the size of the top tier presented to various groups.

Sunday, May 29, 2022

Pedicure, Haircut (and Colour) and a Wedding

 A week of work ends with a wedding Tanzanian style

This week has been a focus on a few treats for me. I found a barber shop where pedicures were advertised and it was not bad. My feet which have walked through dusty roads since my arrival and dried out soles needed a good scrub and scrape. So for $12 it was great value. Mind you the original quote was $10 but after having my feet in hot water for a few minutes suddenly the Engish of the lady scraping my heel managed to tell me 20,000TZS, not the 15,000 I had quoted. I would have tipped her the additional 5,000 so no great loss.

Next day a haircut. Back to the same hairdresser for my $2 cut (tip last time was $2) and I am sitting there the young girl who sweeps the floor, does the hairwashes and other sundry tasks, opens a cupboard and takes out hair dye. Now everyone over here has black hair. The guy out the back who has his hair being dyed has black hair. How ridiculous I thought, only to be told a lot of guys like it darker. So after ascertaining it was only a three minute job ( I forgot to ask how long I had to stay in the chair) and a price of $7.50 I thought why not.

Well putting the dye in was three minutes but waiting for it to dry and then washing my hair was about another hour. Now to my eyes it was very dark. However I have been told by many here they like it. In fact Bishop mentioned to me if I was marraiageable, I would not be turned down! I am not sure it has made me look that much younger.

Work this week was again busy and frustrating. Seeing people working on computer systems where there is no internet, no way of readily sharing documents and even getting a letter written and scanned for the bishop since Wednesday wasn’t finished by Friday. Staff here work very hard.

I was asked by a staff member when “do you rest.” Not satisfied with after work and weekends she persisted and I understood that sometimes people have a break during thier work day even if they don’t leave their desks.

Most mornings we have breakfast before heading to the cathedral for morning prayers and then to the cafeteria where staff enjoy a subsidised breakfast at 8am. I usually go and have a coffee (Vittoria Coffee bags brought with me from Australia) , chat with others and get in by 8.30am. On Thursday I decided to have a chipati and had to wait so went out the back to see how they were preapred. The pictures graphically tell the story.

One morning I walked the long way to the office from the cafe and saw girls from the sewing centre playing a ball game before class. Netball would do well over here. Monkeys were spotted on the roof of the cafe that morning.

The Bunda Bible College has its graduation on 11 June and given my past role with Anglican Aid and helping support students there the college will graduate the largest number of graduates in living memory of any Anglican Church of Tanzania College with forty graduates at certificate, Diploma and the extension (remote) course. As a result I have been invited as the speaker on the day so one evening was spent preparing that talk. As I edited it Saturday, I translated it into Swahili and had a go at speaking it. Not sure I can speak 1500 Swahili words efficiently but will have a practice run through with some poor soul to tell me if it is worth pursuing.

Friday was the PTC graduation in Sydney. I was able to tune in online. Friday afternoon I faciliate the English Bible study. Only two people thiss week.

A Tanzanian Wedding

Bishop told me one of the pastors asked him if he could marry about six weeks ago just after he got a yes from the bride to be. This is a formal process and because she was not a confirmed Anglican and her family wanted the wedding in her town and church, his feedback was that he had to marry in an Anglican Church as an ordained clergy.

So imagine organising the wedding in six weeks. Well it went off on Saturday and was interesting to observe it all. We arrived at the cathedral at 8.40am for a 9am start. Not a soul around. Ten minutes later the groom and best man emerge through the closed doors of the cathedral. They came to see what was happening which was nothing, other than our arrival. at 9.03am still no one. By 9.15am a small number of people started arriving and then a rush.

Both are employed att the local Anglican School and as the adults started increasing in number, a wave of primary and kinder kids from about three years old streamed in. The cathedral was fairly full by 9.30am as the briadal car arrived. She did not emerge till after 10am, by which time a few choirs had warmed the congregation up, the groom had addressed the people inside and most guests were seated making meaning the cathedral was 75% full (about 300 people).

As her entry was announced a choir led singing and people lined up in the aisle. She stopped just inside the cathedral doorway and the groom and best man made their way down the aisle and stopped 1.5m from her. The dean made an announcement,there was a response from the groom, people howled, ululated and cheered and then the groom lifted the veil of his bride to be. Together they commenced walking down the aisle together to deafening ululations and cheers.

The service used the Anglican Prayer Book for weddings so I could follow what was going on. The Vicar General spoke and received a note from the bishop which I was later told “time is not our friend.” He completed his address shortly afterwards. The couple were married, resumed their seats, communion was taken and then back up the front for the binding of hands with the bishops scarf as he prayed for them (words about whatGod has joined let no one separate).. The register was signed and out we went about two hours after the bride made her entry.

Asking a number of people if this was a long wedding, I was gobsmacked to be told this was very shrt at only two hours. The couple were heading to Mwanza (four hours away) for the first reception with her family and friends. I will be at the Musoma reception Sunday night at 7pm. All in all a wonderful experience.

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