Kenya (2) in Text

Photos from previous post are reflected in this text

Sunday morning was church at Bernard’s church. Spent time in Bernard’s office which is a rented room next to the church land. This houses part of his library (I am sleeping with the rest).
Church service was very different from the Zulu church of last week. Clearly a lot more poor people with a number of committed professional people attend this church. This reflect’s Bernard’s priorities to reach the poor and vulnerable. The church relocatd it’s tin shed premises about 100m up the road two weeks ago in preparation for a new building. The slab had been laid the day before and friends in Sydney were financing the first stage of the construction. Land is 100x 50 feet so it will be a three story construction in time. A crew of people transferred chairs, lecterns, plastic flowers etc up the road ready for the service which commenced at 10am and had people arriving to gradually well this building to overflowing and kids doubled up on the plastic chairs.

The service went for three hours and under the tin roof it was very hot. Lots of singing, people coming out to share their story either in song or spoken word and Sam the assistant pastor speaking a number of times before Bernard came to bring the sermon which was in English (the rest of the service was in Swahili) and interpreted in Swahili.

After the service Bernard, Mary and I went for a drive to Limuru for lunch at a former colonial hotel which has seen better days. Lunch was amazing and the tilapia fish I had would rate as close to the best ever. A whole fish served with rice and vegetables for $6.

After lunch to the Rift Valley. We climbed to 8000 feet and the valley below was an amazing spectacle as from our height it dropped to a vast plain of over 300kms in no distance. On the way back we travelled via the school Mary operates at Limuru. There were a myriad of “private” schools from the time I left the airport. As Bernard explained the public education system cannot cope and has classes of over forty and poor outcomes. Many children attending cannot speak English which is the language of instruction and the official language with Swahili. Bernard’s programs target vulnerable children and support them by maintaining them at home while attending school and sometimes boarding school. They are able through his church to fund fees and other expenses for these children who otherwise may not be able to remain at home. By the time we drove home I had to ask if the clock in the car was right as 6pm had come and the day had flown.

Dinner was prepared by Judy. We were joined y Maureen, Bernard’s niece from Nyeri who came to visit for a week. Both girls are awaiting final high school results from November exams which will determine their futures. There were also two other guests for dinner, Juliette and Stephen, both teenagers Bernard had assisted. They live in rooms Bernard rented. Juliette operates a small vegetable stall not far from here. Stephen is studying a trade. Dinner was a beef and bean dish with rice and chippata which are like roti bread and vegetables.

Kenya (2) in photos

Kenya (1)

This was sunrise enroute to Joburg airport having left at 4am

21 February 2009

Arrived at Kentatta Airport about 4.15pm. This replaces Detroit Michigan (Easter 1998) as the worst airport in the world.. Arrivals and departures on the same level, lack of signage and although I was able to withdraw Ksh from the ATM when I purchased water from a store in duty free they did not have change and gave me $US after having to go and find change for my 1000 Ksh note (A$20). Then the process of getting through immigration took the best part of 1½ hours even though I was tenth in line and they did not accept Kenyan currency for the US$50 for the visa..

My host Bernard Kabaru must have just about given up on me as he was nowhere to be seen and me with no contact detail. We eventually found each other. The drive through Nairobi at 6pm Saturday was a shock. Nothing could have prepared me for how under developed this city is. Factory workers were walking home as we passed the industrial part of the city. Traffic jams on a Saturday afternoon as we inched through traffic to Bernard’s home in Ruaka in Central Province. Small businesses dotted the roads on both sides and Bernard pointed out that behind the façade were slums the likes of which I had not previously seen and which I would have an opportunity to see during the week here.

Bernard lives in a secure gated estate. By Australian standards it is extremely modest but as I was to learn the middle class are aspiring to these types of houses. Bernard’s house was entered via gates opened by the security man where every house has walls about four metres high. The walls in the estate are of granite as are the houses. Most like Bernard’s are rented. At his gate Bernard tooted the horn and the double gate was opened by his niece Judy and the car parked in the small front yard. Bernard had explained on the way to his home that Nairobi had only had an hour of water during the previous week so many people, he included had been out purchasing water. This is the dry season and the water supply for Nairobi is quite low and supply is inconsistent.

I met Bernard’s wife Mary. Judy is the niece of a brother and his wife who both died. My room was where his library is stored temporarily and was comfortable. Amazingly the water returned after my arrival which Bernard puts down to me coming!

A cold shower was manageable. It is hard to believe that being on the equator it was not warmer but we are 5,500 feet above sea level and that keeps temperatures down. I slept well even managing to return to sleep after the 3am call from the rooster.

Thusday 19 Feb

Thursday – Another office day. However Broadreach were visiting for two days from Joburg and Thembi arranged a meeting with them. A separate report to the Board will be provided which will form part of the evaluation. A very good feedback on Philakahle’s effectiveness.

A guy named Marcus had some clothes to donate so went out with him and collected them from his home at Bethany. He told me he was the last surviving of five children. One died prior to his birth and the other three in their thirties. He was a fairly upbeat character who is clearly trying to improve his lot in life. He is hoping for work at Ladysmith. Lives with his mother who is disabled. Her social grant is their only income. He was interested in Australia and hoped to visit one day. Given most of the people in the programs I have met are women he was a standout. The clothes we collected had been there for some years and were the clothes of his deceased siblings.

The rest of Thursday was office stuff. The Board met at 3pm and I was invited to sit in. John Green thanked me for the photos sent to him about Zamimpillo. Board was interested in feedback on staff meeting. I have arranged to lead a planning workshop for staff and board members in March. Meeting arranged with Monika for an hour tomorrow. Thursday night for dinner had the French back so the Spaghetti Bol I had made last week was served up. I added some fresh rosemary and some more tomatoes to spin it out and the verdict was very positive from everyone. Definitely one of the best I have made. A Swedish PhD student Rebecca was staying for the first time.

Care for AIDS Team Ruaka Kenya

We were dropped off at the first house 2 kms from Banana town
Some singing starts the meeting
Esther doing some admin with clients

The area we visited housed a number of people

Zamimpillo Training Centre

Intimbane School Moayeni Valley

Spion Kop

Spion Kop

Spion Kop

Zulu Church Ladysmith

Funeral of Masondo

17/2/09

Saturday spent at funeral of Masondo. Six hundred on my count inside the church and outside. It was hot and I had to go out after about 21/2 hours due to the heat The cortege left about 1pm (started 9am) with a Zulu singing contingent leading the hearse down the road very slowly. People attending the funeral were dressed in uniforms. As explained to me the ladies at each church have their own uniform. Masondo was a minister with theo quals of the United Reformed Church of South Africa.

Afternoon spent just relaxing on the balcony and reading and dozing. Went to Bingelela resort on north side of town. Able to watch the Rugby (Sharks and Bulls). People are keen on their rugby. Got talking to various people. A couple working on the Ernie Els golf estate about 20kms away who are landscaping.. This is a development where small holiday homes start from R4M (or A$700,000). Another group were represented by a teacher who taught in a private school of 25 kids in the mountains. One of six teachers thet teach the kids of resort owners and workers. On guy from Joburg for weekend is a tour guide. Got some tips on Capetwon from him. Another guy a stone mason at the golf estate.

Sunday morning to Ladysmith for church. Only white person in congregation. All very friendly from the time I stepped out of my car. Very hospitable. The pastor remembered me from the funeral the week previously. As I anticipated music was fantastic. They had a band which enhanced the Zulu voices.

Lunch was a chicken burger. Then to Spion Kop where I spent over two hours which surprised me given how small the area was. Back about 4pm to find that a couple of detectives were in the unit for the night. They were from Joburg and investigating the armed robbery of tourists at a resort in the mountains. Apparently the tourists were held hostage for three hours and stripped of money, jewellery and passports. An interesting evening spent discussing Australia (they were very interested in what life was like), local politics and the election and lobola which is the dowry to be paid by the groom’s family.

Lobola

Lobola
Earlier on Sunday 15/2 I had picked up a hitchhiker who told me he had to pay 11 cows for his girlfriend before he could marry her. Thus far he had paid for five and was struggling to get another six on R2000 (A$350) per month as a toll collector. He did not support lobola which is The young detective from Joburg had a different view. He also had to pay 11 cows but suggested by working hard it showed the family of the prospective bride he was worthy of her.. As I was to learn the next day however this is a means of keeping women enslaved.
Christine Mennell had a number of women she worked with at Isibani who were abused not only by their husbands but by inlaw who tended to view them as slave. One of the volunteers from Isibani proudly told me her lobola (paid to her family) was 11 cows because she was a virgin. Apparently girls are tested to confirm their status so prospective husbands get what they paid for. This is still strong amongst the Zulus but declining amongst other groups in SA.

Funeral Preparations in Zulu culture

Funeral Preparations in Zulu Culture (2)