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Saturday, February 28, 2009

Kenya (1)

This was sunrise enroute to Joburg airport having left at 4am
21 February 2009

Arrived at Kentatta Airport about 4.15pm. This replaces Detroit Michigan (Easter 1998) as the worst airport in the world.. Arrivals and departures on the same level, lack of signage and although I was able to withdraw Ksh from the ATM when I purchased water from a store in duty free they did not have change and gave me $US after having to go and find change for my 1000 Ksh note (A$20). Then the process of getting through immigration took the best part of 1½ hours even though I was tenth in line and they did not accept Kenyan currency for the US$50 for the visa..

My host Bernard Kabaru must have just about given up on me as he was nowhere to be seen and me with no contact detail. We eventually found each other. The drive through Nairobi at 6pm Saturday was a shock. Nothing could have prepared me for how under developed this city is. Factory workers were walking home as we passed the industrial part of the city. Traffic jams on a Saturday afternoon as we inched through traffic to Bernard’s home in Ruaka in Central Province. Small businesses dotted the roads on both sides and Bernard pointed out that behind the façade were slums the likes of which I had not previously seen and which I would have an opportunity to see during the week here.

Bernard lives in a secure gated estate. By Australian standards it is extremely modest but as I was to learn the middle class are aspiring to these types of houses. Bernard’s house was entered via gates opened by the security man where every house has walls about four metres high. The walls in the estate are of granite as are the houses. Most like Bernard’s are rented. At his gate Bernard tooted the horn and the double gate was opened by his niece Judy and the car parked in the small front yard. Bernard had explained on the way to his home that Nairobi had only had an hour of water during the previous week so many people, he included had been out purchasing water. This is the dry season and the water supply for Nairobi is quite low and supply is inconsistent.

I met Bernard’s wife Mary. Judy is the niece of a brother and his wife who both died. My room was where his library is stored temporarily and was comfortable. Amazingly the water returned after my arrival which Bernard puts down to me coming!

A cold shower was manageable. It is hard to believe that being on the equator it was not warmer but we are 5,500 feet above sea level and that keeps temperatures down. I slept well even managing to return to sleep after the 3am call from the rooster.

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