No Millionairres in this slum _ Nyeri Kenya

The slum visit was fairly confronting. As poor as the people in Ruarka are this was far worse as pictures will convey. People literally living on top of one another. The tin structures around Ruarka look palaial compared to this slum. The Nyeri Church provides support to orphans but has not yet developed an organised HIV program although it is clearly required from what I saw frm the people we visited

Kenya 5 in Text

I had discussed with Bernard spending Wednesday on his proposal as I wanted to ensure he had something to finalise which could go to AAF for consideration. Dropped at he church office at 9am. The construction work is amazing. Twenty guys on site moving tons of gravel and sand by hand and making concrete and scaffolding by hand. By afternoon all the support pylons had been hand poured.

The day essentially spent talking to Margaret and Jane about the OVC program and commencing the proposal. I also showed Bernard the Channels of Hope Program from KZN which he said is exactly what he is looking at doing. I spent the day essentially writing. I was amazed at how much I got through. Rose came by at lunch time to assist Jane with accounting. Rose is studying her CPA and is not far off finishing. It was interesting to observe Bernard interact with these people the last two days. Patient in his explanation of how things should be done, why this was required emphasising all the time the need for proper recording so others who may have to fill the breach understood from the books exactly what is happening. Bernard spends time in the office and I am not sure if they are prearranged appointment but he gets many people coming to see him for counselling. I got a proposal with three program objectives substantially drafted. Margaret and Sam assisted me with the activities and were keen to contribute their ideas. I hope I have not raised their expectations too much.

Dinner tonight turned out to be with Jesse and Paris who live just down the road from Bernard’s. I had called in Monday night to say hello briefly and felt it a bit rude leaving after a short time so said I would visit after work Wednesday. Lo and behold they had arranged with Mary and Bernard for us all to go for dinner. It was an interesting evening learning about their culture which is still strong. As middle class as this couple aspire to be (both are accountants) I heard they still went through the dowry system but it was cash not cows. They have two kids, Faith and Joy and Rose from the church is Paris’ cousin. One of the kids put a wedding video on from a wedding they had been to in November and it was interesting to observe that and talk about it. Judy and Maureen were also there. Maureen was surprised to hear we had mobile phones in Australia and assumed Kenya was the only country in the world to have acquired mobile phones.

Kenya (1)

This was sunrise enroute to Joburg airport having left at 4am

21 February 2009

Arrived at Kentatta Airport about 4.15pm. This replaces Detroit Michigan (Easter 1998) as the worst airport in the world.. Arrivals and departures on the same level, lack of signage and although I was able to withdraw Ksh from the ATM when I purchased water from a store in duty free they did not have change and gave me $US after having to go and find change for my 1000 Ksh note (A$20). Then the process of getting through immigration took the best part of 1½ hours even though I was tenth in line and they did not accept Kenyan currency for the US$50 for the visa..

My host Bernard Kabaru must have just about given up on me as he was nowhere to be seen and me with no contact detail. We eventually found each other. The drive through Nairobi at 6pm Saturday was a shock. Nothing could have prepared me for how under developed this city is. Factory workers were walking home as we passed the industrial part of the city. Traffic jams on a Saturday afternoon as we inched through traffic to Bernard’s home in Ruaka in Central Province. Small businesses dotted the roads on both sides and Bernard pointed out that behind the façade were slums the likes of which I had not previously seen and which I would have an opportunity to see during the week here.

Bernard lives in a secure gated estate. By Australian standards it is extremely modest but as I was to learn the middle class are aspiring to these types of houses. Bernard’s house was entered via gates opened by the security man where every house has walls about four metres high. The walls in the estate are of granite as are the houses. Most like Bernard’s are rented. At his gate Bernard tooted the horn and the double gate was opened by his niece Judy and the car parked in the small front yard. Bernard had explained on the way to his home that Nairobi had only had an hour of water during the previous week so many people, he included had been out purchasing water. This is the dry season and the water supply for Nairobi is quite low and supply is inconsistent.

I met Bernard’s wife Mary. Judy is the niece of a brother and his wife who both died. My room was where his library is stored temporarily and was comfortable. Amazingly the water returned after my arrival which Bernard puts down to me coming!

A cold shower was manageable. It is hard to believe that being on the equator it was not warmer but we are 5,500 feet above sea level and that keeps temperatures down. I slept well even managing to return to sleep after the 3am call from the rooster.