Potjie Koi

Saturday evening from 5pm was spent at a Potjoie Koi run by the Dutch Church at the primary school. This was the end to an all day fete. I arrived as a group of men was modelling female attire which had the crowd in stitches especially as the pastor came out in various forms of dress. A serious discussion later with this man who came to speak to myself and Zosia and Michael and asked the question “what do you say to people back home about South Africa?” An interesting discussion about past history and the current legacy of apartheid and the white emigration from SA. There has been a net decline of 1 million whites as many have left in the last five years.

Sunday morning was an 8am service at the Anglican church. Small congregation as many away for various reasons. Female assistant minister took the service including communion. No restrictions in SA on women priests. I enjoyed the service and the minister in particular. Morning tea afterwards found me taking to the Zulu kids who were friendly and chatty. A couple of the girls wanted to sing for me and I enjoyed listening to them. I asked if the could teach me the SA National Anthem and got plenty of laughs as I struggled with the pronunciation of the indigenous words in the first two lines. My ambition is to master the anthem in my time here.

A Zulu Funeral

After a walk from about 5.45am around town ( and observed the security that most houses have in town but will save for another post) and to the outskirts I had breakfast and then Sindy from World Vision arrived for a lift to the funeral. She has lived with Mam Dube for over 20 years and is like family. The drive to Ladysmith was scenic. Rolling green hills and fields of corn and Soy with cattle, dotted with Zulu villages and townships along the way. The numbers hitch hiking is testimony of the poor transport system.

We arrived at the funeral late after getting lost. The funeral service was held in the front yard of a house in a new estate on the edges of Ladysmith. A large marquee covered the back and front yards. The back was where the food preparation took place. Plastic chairs were supplied on both sides of the fence and the casket was at the front. About 150 people were in attendance and though late we were by no means the last to arrive as many who travelled from as far as Joburg joined us. At the front were a row of pastors from various churches, at least seven. An MC led the service and the program listed 24 people to speak.

Between each speaker, the MC spoke, telling jokes, praying, leading singing and then introducing the next speaker. Some spoke for 10-15 minutes and others for only a few minutes. There were no tears until the end when the female members of the family spoke and a group of about a dozen sang a song. I was later told there had been a service the previous evening and some of the speakers listed had spoken there. Sindy and I were seated in an uncovered area. I went to the car to retrieve my water bottle as it was hot (my right arm is sunburned as is my face). At midday there was a huddled discussion as time was running out. The program seemed to stop suddenly as chairs from one side were moved and people went to the back. An announcement was made about a collection being taken for the family and people were invited to the cemetery. All in all three hours service at the home.

At the cemetery there were three marquees set up for three burials to take place, ours being the first. Lots of singing which was fantastic again. I was next to a woman I had sat near at the house who had a fantastic voice and led much of the singing here. A small homily from a pastor, more singing and the coffin was lowered into the grave and a number of poles (about twelve) were placed in and over the coffin, followed by a woven floor mat before the earth was shovelled in and gravediggers stamping the earth with their feet. I wandered off as this was surely going to take a while and wandered around the graves. Overwhelmingly those buried in recent years were in their twenties and early thirties. The occasional person in their fifties to seventies. A whole generation wiped out by the HIV/AIDS pandemic.

I was called back by Sindy as people left to return to the house. A ceremonial handwashing as people filed in to be handed a food box with meat, rice, vegetables and plastic cutlery. I was asked to sit at the head table where we were served on plates. One of the pastors had come from Joburg. His relationship to the deceased was a family member was in his congregation. I wandered out the back to see a full mobile kitchen with the biggest cook pot I have seen. On opening the lid the Sotho woman invited me to jump in. I reminded her those days were over and she laughed. However it was the main cooking pot, still loaded with meat. Other pots not as large did the rice and veges. I was introduced to Mam Dube’s children and some of her grandchildren. They have done well as a nurse, social worker and uni students.

As people left they were given food boxes. There was still lots left over. Traditional Zulu custom requires the deceased’s family to accommodate and feed people coming to pay their respects. Dying is an expensive business for the living. I was thanked many times by family members for coming. It was a useful insight into how death and grieving happen in Zulu culture as well as the huge cost. I was told that families go into debt to ensure they follow custom in dealing with the death of a family member. The whole process today was six hours in total. This was additional to a service the previous evening.

The end of week 1

Saturday, 7 February 2009
Yesterday was an office day. I decided to start on the OADGS application which is the prime project I have to complete while I am here. After a week I have collected a lot of information from Philakahle about projects and the AAF funding over the last four or five years.

Before I started this however the daily staff devotions had a video done for Canada which featured Sibongesini who died. So staff were able to view this in the context of his death earlier this week and it gave me an indication of who he was. Then to the bank to get some cash to pay for my accommodation. I can’t remember the last time I queued for an hour only to be told I could not use my debit card to withdraw cash over the counter. This was after the staff had phoned Joburg. Went to the ATM and had to make three withdrawals (each incurs a fee with my bank) as the maximum withdrawal is R2000 to get the required amount.

The rest of the day was in the office poring over documents, and starting to type up the 2009 application between answering the phone as staff were involved in a series of meetings. Home at 4.30pm. Saw Thembi who works on the CST down town and spoke to her about her weekend. Spoke to my friend Trevor Smith who is still in Joburg. He was asking lots of questions about my impressions after a week and about Bergville. Dinner tonight was with Michael (an Aussie) and his wife Zosia (a Canadian) who will have been here six months when they leave in April.

The weekend is full – a funeral Saturday morning of Mam Dube’s (she is a Philakahle Board member) niece. A poikie ( check spelling) which is an Afrikaaners cook off from what I understand and a charity fundraiser.

Dancing with Mosqitos

Thursday 5 Feb I got to the office for the daily staff meeting and devotions. I was asked to lead and discussed Eph 4:1-3 in the context of unity especially at a time of grief and encouraged each person to be understanding of each other as we process grief differently. Word has come that the funeral has now been moved back a week which means another week as people get on with their work whilst also anticipating the funeral which is apparently going to be very big.

I spoke to Linda (my wife) this morning and then had to ring my bank. My card is going to expire at the end of Feb and I need to have a new debit card by then. Helped Carol with some admin around the newsletter and getting it out as well setting her gmail account up with addresses and address lists. The morning flew. Phum arranged for me to drive her to Escort after we visited Mam Dube’s as she flies out in the morning to return to College in Capetown. Christine Mennell rang to set up a time to visit her project at Isibani near Winterton. She is seeking AAF funding for it. Arranged the visit for next Thursday. Mam Dube was not home so Phum undertook to talk to her about my changed accomm plans and speak to me tonight.

After dropping Phum at Escort and ensuring she got a lift ( she knows all the tricks) I stopped at a truck selling avocados and bought a bag of 15 avocados for R20 (about A$3) which is equivalent to buying two avos in Oz.

Reviewed a large file of funding proposals in the afternoon. The info required for my project is all there. Son Ashley rang from New York and had a chat with him as distorted as it was at my end. The global financial crisis has slowed down work but he remains confident. I like the idea of closing the office at 4.30pm. Perhaps we should review our flexible arrangements in Australia. Prepared a calendar for my time here so I have some sense of what I am doing and when.

I was able to take the file home and review it together with some Post It notes Carol gave me while sitting on the verandah of my unit, under a tree drinking a coke and eating some crisps. Dinner tonight had an additional person Nono at the table. She is a Zulu woman working for Univ of KZN as a field worker on agricultural projects in the area. She had two farmers’ meetings today. Lives during the week in PMB and returns home weekends. Sylvan was sick tonight but managed to wolf down a big meal. I suggested it was a fever (starve a cold –feed a fever). The French are coping and not afraid to ask questions about my English. Seraphine had asked me when I was responded “I am not too bad” if this was a good thing?

Asleep at ten despite intentions of reading a chapter of Obama. Awake at 1am having had the Bergville mosqitos annual ball on my body. Slept the rest of the night with a mosquito coil which I have not seen since campingdays.

Understanding Death

A grieving Phum is comforted by Zoisa from Canada

To say today has been a big day would be an understatement.
My third day here and a third death of someone directly related to the organisations working here. Mam Dube’s niece was mentioned yesterday, Sindy who works for World Vision has a funeral Thursday for a family member. On arriving at the office this morning I was greeted by Carol and John both distressed and with tears who advised me of the death of Sibingosini who had started with Philakahle in 2004 in the Channels of Hope Program.
A convoy of staff and pastors of local churches went to his father’s house. I was able to join for what is the traditional Zulu grieving process. About 25 people were seated in the small living area of this Zulu house. Joseph from Philakahle commenced by introducing John Green the Board member who is an Anglican minister. John spoke first to the family identifying with their loss as well as the huge shock of grief felt by all at Philakahle and World Vision. Then followed a series of people speaking of what he meant to them – at leasy a dozen people, work colleagues, pastors from the local churches with whom he networked and finally his brother speaking on behalf of the family. In between speakers there were songs led by Joseph. To hear Zulu women sing is an unbelievable experience and very moving. As I was to learn during the day this was the first of many such events and Phila was organising to buy food to feed guests who will come to sleep. The funeral won’t happen till the following weekend so it is a long mourning period.

There was an association of Home Based Carers (HBC)being established in the hall. This brought a conversation by the GP who was concerned about an event being planned to recognise HBC next week which might cause some divisions as other carers joining this association are from different networks. The suggestion was to allow the carers themselves to suggest how to deal with the issue.This resulted in a meeting I attended later in the day.with the committee of the HBC Association who discussed the issue. In the end it was decided to leave the event next week as is. They have however accepted an offer to assist them is seeking funding which I will try to do over the next few weeks.

People in and out of the office all afternoon. Many in tears and upset at the death of someone who was very much loved by all.

I also had Bongekile from the school that will be partnering up with a school in the Macarthur area (St Peters). I advised her of the interest St Peters has in forming a relationship with her school and gave her the letter from the Principal of St Peters. I have indicated I will arrange to visit next week. Bongekile is a member of the Phila Board and speaks exceptionally good English.

I have been here three days and am wondering about all the work to be done. Apart from the week in Kenya there is visits to other agencies AAF supports near Durban.

The weather today was in the low 20’s and very pleasant. I am not as tired as earlier this week.

First two days

The Drakensberg from Cathedral Peak Hotel Overlooking Cathedral Peak

Breakfast with Phum my first morning

4/02/2009 6:29 AM

The last two days have flown. The heat is tiring and draining and I had opened the PC at 10.30 last night and then went to bed.

Monday started with breakfast with Phum at 7.30. Catching up on the year since she went back to SA and College to study. We discussed who various people are in Philakahle and then she took me to Philakahle and commenced introductions. The office is a large Zulu rondavel divided into offices housing a number of projects. World Vision rent space for a number of their projects. World Vision are based across the road and I was introduced to various staff there. V has quite an infrastructure. Met an Australian guy Micheal married o Ziosa (pronounced Zarsha) who are volunteering with WV. He is doing IT training and I was impressed with the computer training room when I visited to see half a dozen Zulus learning various MS Office programs.

Phum then took me to Cathedral Peak for lunch. Rang Linda from there to advise the hotel there is fully booked at Easter. Phum spoke to Linda as well.

On the way back called in to see Mam Dube with whom plans had been made for me to stay. The access track had been affected by heavy rain in the previous week. How we got down and out again was a miracle. She had lost a niece a few days earlier and was grieving. It was agreed I would not come till next week. However after some thought and discussion later that evening my accommodation plans changed and I decided to remain at Anthony’s B&B where I had stayed Sunday night.

Dinner at the B&B was an international affair. Carol Irish who operates the business is widowed, having moved to Bergville with husband Anthony who has since died. It is a comfortable house and serves a hot breakfast daily and dinner each evening. At dinner Monday were two French post grad students based at Uni of KZN Pietermaritzberg. Seraphine is a PhD in eco hydrology and he is a Masters in soils. Phum was with us for dinner as was Carol who by day is assisting at the Philakahle office as manager while a new manager is located.
Tuesday was up for brekkie at 7am. Was about to leave when Phum phoned to tell me Vusi was coming over to change the reg plates on the car. Apparently this occurs when ownership changes. I have use of this vehicle for my stay in Bergville and will allow me freedom to move around.
Took all my files to the office, met Carol and Ntombfuthi who is the Finance Officer for Phila. I am sharing the office with them.
An executive meeting from 10am concluded at 1pm. Discussed the organisational structure and projects and future plans. Will be writing up some position descriptions and project plans as well as reviewing previous project information for the main purpose of my visit which is to seek tax deductibility for AAF. Ntombi and I walked to town during the lunch break. As I was later to learn whites avoid town and I was the only white during our time there. She had to go to the Post Office which had a queue 50 deep outside waiting to enter. Lucky she only wanted to get the mail. Then to the bank where she appeared back in no time. Again when I poked my head in there were about 80 people seated waiting to be served (at least seats were provided as it looked like a day out for people in there). We went to a clothing store where she was looking at school uniforms for a niece. This store was just like the store my mother went to when I was young with boxes in the wall which had the various stock items. It appeared to specialise in school uniforms of which there were many (kids cannot attend school without the appropriate uniform).From there to the Spar supermarket where I bought more water. I also bough from a roadside stall BBQed corn which Ndombi ate as well as we walked back to the office. She called in to see the local GP about a staff member who was hospitalised. The walk back to the office took us past two mortuaries and funeral directors. A third was further up the street and as I learned later at dinner there are 8-10 mortuaries in town as the rituals surrounding death take ten days to complete before the burial.

The afternoon was spent poring over records for the work am doing. Zoisa came down looking for Carol and invited me to dinner some time. She and Michael have been here since October and have a flat in town.

The office closes at 4.30pm so I had to ensure I was ready to leave then. Ndombi was very helpful during the afternoon. There is no photocopier so she had to scan everything to copy which was a disruption to her.

Sat outside reading my Obama book between dozes. The heat is tiring. The French guys arrived. Seraphine sat at the other end of the pool going through grasses collected today. Her research has to do with the effect of cow dung on soils, erosion and dung beetles and their impact on the growth of the grass. An interesting discussion but science is not my forte.

Dinner agin with the same group including Phum who came over again. An enjoyable evening discussing all sorts of issues including death rituals of the Zulus. I am off to the funeral on Saturday of Mam Dube’s niece. My accommodation arrangements were finalised and I will be in Carol’s flat which was vacated today by the visiting police. A good night’s sleep with a fan and without a sheet. It would not get below 20 at night.

The drive to Bergville

Jill and John Green

2/02/2009 5:14 AM
To Durban with Kulula Air who offered “free oxygen” from the masks that came down and suggested that adults fix their own masks before attending to children and “hooligans who act like children.” On leaving we were reminded to make sure we took all our possessions as anything left would “be shared equally between the cabin crew,” and if you are leaving something “make sure it is nice.” A pleasant flight and a great sense of humour. I slept for most of it.

Met at Durban by John and Jill Green.
John is the Anglican Minister at Bergville and a member of Philakahle board. Jill is principal od the primary school which has 65 boarders. A pleasant three hour drive to Bergville. The land is beautifully green, punctuated with hills, grazing and pastures, cornfield, Australian native trees and water. Two dams were over spillways they have had so much rain recently. Through fog for twenty minutes, observed a beautiful sunset behind the Drakensburg ranges which looked spectacular. A history lesson on Africa, its politics, apartheid and its legacy, Anglican church history and discussions about the work in and around Bergville. I dozed a few times – the legacy of waking at 3am the last two mornings (which is actually 6am Sydney time when I get up anyway).

We stopped for dinner at a restaurant Thokozisa near Winterton. Outdoors under thatched covering. John likes a red wine which accompanied my African spiced chicken breasts with veg. A great introduction to my time at Bergville.

John has lined me up for a board meeting Tuesday and a night away “Fish with the Bish.” Bishop of Natal will be in town early March and a men’s group are heading away for a night. I was dropped off at a B&B run by Carol who is currently temporary administrator at Philakahe. A brief intro and discussion before heading to bed and crashing. Sadly awake at 3.50 am and unable to sleep again but an improvement on my two previous nights. Beakfast wth Phum in the morning.